Acne Awareness: Dermatologist’s 5 Golden Rules to Prevent Scarring

For nearly four fifths (80%) of people aged 11 to 30, stubborn acne breakouts are an almost unavoidable rite of passage, erupting during the turbulent years of puberty and often persisting well into adulthood.

From the occasional pimple to relentless flare-ups, acne leaves its mark not only on the skin but also on self-esteem, turning a common skin condition into a source of daily frustration.

With June marking Acne Awareness month, there has been 1.1million searches for the term ‘acne’ in the past 30 days alone, however, taking the right action with the first initial appearance of a skin spot is vital to combat scarring.

Leading dermatologist, Dr Conal Perrett, from The Devonshire Clinic revealed there are five main types of spots to look out for.

1. Blackheads

These spots form when pores become clogged with oil and dead skin cells, then oxidise on the surface, creating a dark appearance.

These are generally harmless and rarely cause scars unless repeatedly picked at, which can enlarge pores. Ingredients like salicylic acid and gentle retinoids help keep pores clear and prevent future blackheads.

2. Papules

Small, red, inflamed bumps without a visible pus-filled head are papules. They occur when a clogged pore triggers deeper skin inflammation.

With moderate risk of scarring, papules should never be squeezed, as this can worsen inflammation and lead to lasting marks. Ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide, topical retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids and azelaic acid can reduce bacteria and redness while supporting recovery. Laser and blue light may also be useful adjunct treatments.

3. Pustules

Similar to papules, but contains pus, they form a red base with a white or yellow tip. They carry a higher risk of scarring, especially if popped or picked.

Again, topical agents such as benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide, retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, salicylic acid and azelaic acid are useful, established treatments. In some cases, oral antibiotics may also be required for effective acne control. Laser and blue light may also be useful adjunct treatments.

4. Nodules

Nodules are large, painful lumps that develop deep within the skin and often persist for weeks.

These lesions pose a significant risk of permanent scarring and usually require medical treatment. Prescription-strength retinoids and oral antibiotics are often needed under the guidance of a dermatologist. If these measures fail to deliver adequate control, systemic isotretinoin may be required.

5. Cysts

Cysts are the most severe type of acne lesion. These large, soft, pus-filled lumps sit deep below the skin’s surface and can be very painful.

Cystic acne has the highest likelihood of leaving deep permanent scars. Effective treatment often includes oral isotretinoin or corticosteroid injections administered by a dermatologist. It’s crucial to never squeeze cysts, as this can dramatically increase scarring and spread infection.

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Dr Conal Perrett shared insight into effectively managing skin scars: “The surge in acne-related searches in recent weeks shows just how many people are worried about the long-term impact on their skin health. Prevention and early treatment are key to avoiding permanent scarring.

“Using the right skincare ingredients, alongside daily sun protection, can make a significant difference. For more persistent or severe acne, seeking professional advice is the best way to protect the skin and support a smooth, healthy complexion in the future.”

Dr Perrett’s five tips to managing skin scars:

1. Avoid picking: “Refrain from picking or squeezing any blemishes, as this can worsen inflammation and lead to permanent marks.”

Picking at your skin introduces bacteria and can deepen the damage beneath the surface, increasing the likelihood of scarring and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Instead, use targeted treatments and gentle skincare to support natural healing. If blemishes are persistent, consult a dermatologist rather than attempting to extract them at home.

2. Prioritise SPF: “Exposure to UV rays can darken pre-existing scars and slow down the healing process. Keeping hydrated and using SPF daily, even on cloudy days, will help speed this up.”

Sun exposure stimulates melanin production, which can make scars appear darker and more pronounced. A broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher should be applied every morning and reapplied throughout the day. Pairing sun protection with a good moisturizer enhances skin repair by maintaining hydration, which is crucial for cell turnover and barrier function. It’s also very important to remember to take stringent sun protection measures if you are on oral isotretinoin, as this medication can make the skin more sensitive to ultraviolet radiation from the sun.

3. Acne intervention: “Addressing acne as soon as possible can help reduce inflammation and lower the risk of permanent scars.”

Early treatment can help control breakouts before they become severe and damage the deeper layers of skin. This might involve over-the-counter topical treatments, prescription medication, or professional therapies. Reducing inflammation quickly helps to minimize trauma and reduce the risk of long-term textural or pigment changes.

4. Invest in ingredients: “Ingredients such as retinoids, salicylic acid, and niacinamide work as agents to help repair and protect your skin’s barrier. Incorporating these into your skincare routine can help prevent scarring.”

Retinoids accelerate skin renewal and help fade discoloration, salicylic acid clears out clogged pores and reduces inflammation, and niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier while calming redness. Used consistently, these ingredients can both treat active acne and support healing, reducing the chance of new scars forming. Always introduce active ingredients gradually to avoid irritation.

5. Professional treatments: “For stubborn scarring, advanced treatments such as chemical peels, laser and microneedling can be the best way forward.”

These procedures promote collagen production and skin regeneration. Chemical peels exfoliate the top layers of skin to improve tone and texture, while microneedling creates micro-injuries that stimulate natural healing responses. Depending on your skin type and scar severity, a dermatologist can tailor a treatment plan that may include laser therapy, dermal fillers, or other advanced options.