Contrast Makeup Theory Explained
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In light of Aliénor’s recent contrast makeup theory going viral, Heather Metcalfe, tanning expert and founder of After Glow urges those using fake tan this festive season to assess how tanning affects their overall contrast, and how to plan their makeup looks accordingly.
“If you’ve ever fake-tanned for an event and tried your usual makeup look, but it just doesn’t look right, contrast makeup theory could be at play.
When you’re tanning, you’re changing the shade of your complexion and how that harmonises with the rest of your natural features. We often forget to restore the balance through our makeup which leads to our look feeling off. While the difference is less dramatic for those who have high contrast features, for blondes, depending on the shade of tan you opt for, you could see yourself going from low contrast with your natural complexion, to high contrast once your tan’s developed,” says Heather Metcalfe, founder of After Glow.
TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@alieenor/video/7418648810831891745
How does contrast makeup theory apply when tanning?
Naturally paler blondes will experience an upward shift when it comes to contrast, especially if they use a tan that develops darker than their hair colour. They’re going to find themselves moving from their usual low contrast look, into a high contrast, or medium contrast look depending on the shades involved. This means that where you might usually feel best with a no-makeup-makeup look, when tanned, you’ll have to create more intensity in certain areas of the face to balance out the change in contrast, for example opting for light and bright shimmery shades in your eye look to reflect your hair colour.
Those with a naturally higher contrast, think deep-toned hair, light or deep eyes and paler skin, will be doing the inverse. Fake tanning is going to reduce that contrast by deepening your complexion, moving you more into the medium contrast zone. For the best makeup results when tanned, you should move away from the intense looks you’d create when your skin is at its natural tone, and instead focus on creating little pockets of intensity across the face to help harmonise and balance.
Expert tips for the perfect Winter tan
- Establish your skin undertone
If your skin has a pink, red or bluish tint, you have cool undertones. Your best self tanner will have: a green or violet base.
If your skin gives off a yellow, peachy or golden hue, you have warm undertones. Your best self tanner will have: a caramel or olive base.
If your skin doesn’t lean toward either, you have neutral undertones. In this case you can experiment to find your best self tanner, but following the rules for cool undertones will likely give you the most natural-looking tan.
- Get your prep game on point
Our Winter skin typically isn’t our best skin. We have less of it on show during the harsher months, and often skimp on the prep we do during the Summer. The day before tanning, make sure you’re exfoliating every inch of your body and following up with a rich moisturiser. Also make sure you’re booking any beauty treatments prior to your tan too (waxing, nails etc.)! Ensuring you’re removing all of those dead Winter cells results in a more even, more natural tan.
- Tone it down
Ever fake tanned during the Winter months and feel like a bronzed goddess at home, only to step outside and feel unnaturally orange? The overcast British weather often doesn’t do our faux-tanned skin much justice at this time of year, and it can often be better to opt for a lighter shade than you go for in Summer, or if you can’t afford to splurge on a different shade of tan, simply leave to develop for a shorter period of time than usual. You can always build on your tan if you’re not feeling glowy enough!
