What are barcode lips and what can you do about them?
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‘Barcode lips’ is the latest aesthetic term to describe the development of wrinkles on the upper lips. They often resemble the appearance of barcode lines, hence the name.
Previously, it was thought that barcode lips could only appear on smokers, due to the repetitive pursing of the lips when smoking a cigarette or vaping.
However, the reality is barcode lips are part of the natural ageing process, and can be caused by various other lifestyle factors such as sun exposure or drinking through straws. That’s why we spoke to skin doctor, Dr Wafaa El Mouhebb at Dr Wafaa Clinic who outlines what the main causes of barcode lips are, and how you can treat them.
What are barcode lips?
Barcode lips refer to the vertical fine lines or wrinkles that appear on or around the lips. Typically, they are most noticeable on the upper lip between the smile lines, which go from the nostrils to the corners of the lips. These expression lines start to become apparent at the age of 40, when the skin begins to lose its natural elasticity and firmness. They frequently coincide with a decrease in lip volume as we naturally age. Barcode lips are also called ‘lipstick lines’ because patients often report that their lipstick ‘bleeds’ beyond the lip borders, settling into the small, ingrained fine lines around their mouth.
What causes barcode lips?
Barcode lips are often a natural consequence of ageing, due to the loss of collagen. As the most abundant protein in the body, collagen gives our skin structural integrity to keep it looking youthful, smooth, and firm. Our bodies collagen production decreases by 1% every year from the age of 21 onwards. During the first five years of menopause, collagen loss accelerates to 30%, and continues to decrease by 2% every year afterwards. Without enough collagen, our skin cannot maintain its elasticity so begins to show signs of ageing such as wrinkles and fine lines.
Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun can further accelerate this ageing process by breaking down collagen and causing damage to skins structure. Individuals with Caucasian skin have lower melanin levels and therefore, less inherent protection from the sun’s damaging UV rays. While darker skin tones do take longer to burn and less UV rays penetrate skin of colour, daily SPF protection is still important due to the risk of developing melasma, hyperpigmentation and skin cancer from UV damage.
The circular muscle around the lips, known as the orbicularis oris, can also contribute to the formation of barcode lips when it is overactive. This muscle is involved in various facial expressions such as smiling or pouting, and is more active when engaging in habits such as smoking or drinking through a straw. The mechanical stress from repetitively pursing the lips contributes to the development of fine lines and wrinkles around the mouth.
Finally, dehydration can cause the skin to become more susceptible to barcode lips. When the skin is dehydrated, it is less likely to bounce back and resist creasing. If you already have some fine lines and wrinkles around the mouth, dehydrated skin can also cause existing barcode lips to look more pronounced, as the skin lacks proper hydration to appear plump.
How can we treat barcode lips?
Treating barcode lips requires a combination of preventative measures, healthy skincare practices and in some cases, dermatology treatments.
- SPF protection
Prevention is always better than cure. By using a broad spectrum SPF30+ daily, you can prevent the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the skin, which is accelerated by sun exposure. If you already have wrinkles or fine lines around the mouth, regular use of lip balms with SPF30+ can help prevent further damage from the sun’s damaging UV rays.
- Retinoids
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives, which can help stimulate collagen production and improve the texture of the skin. Creams or serums containing retinoids will gently exfoliate dead skin cells that clog pores and make wrinkles look more apparent. This will help cell turnover, to reveal brighter and smoother looking skin over time. As well as this, retinoids have antioxidant properties that can neutralise damaging free radicals, protecting skin from further damage and preventing wrinkles from deepening.
- Chemical Peels
Chemical peels can slow down the ageing process, prevent wrinkles and stimulate the production of collagen for firmer skin. They work by using acids to remove the top layer of dead skin cells to exfoliate and allow for better penetration of skincare products. Lighter peels may address superficial lines, while medium-depth peels can tackle deeper wrinkles. A dermatologist can assess your skin and recommend the most appropriate peel for your needs. I recommend our patients ‘The Perfect Peel’, which contains ingredients such as kojic acid, glutathione and retinoic which help encourage cell turnover and reduce the visibility of fine lines.
- Laser treatments
The heat generated through laser resurfacing can stimulate collagen production deep within the dermis, the layer below the skin’s epidermis. Collagen is the essential protein that gives skin its plumpness and elasticity, creating a smoother and more youthful appearance. Beyond this, laser resurfacing can improve the overall texture and tone of the upper lip area. It can fade hyperpigmentation caused by sun exposure, smooth out rough patches, and minimise the appearance of enlarged pores.
- Dermal fillers
Getting rid of your lip lines, rather than trying to cover them up, can easily take 10 years off your face. Dermal fillers allow you to add volume and plumpness back to the area, reducing the appearance of upper lip lines. Barcode lips can create shadows that make them appear deeper than they actually are. By filling in the lines, dermal fillers can minimise these shadows and smooth out wrinkles, making them less noticeable. Hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers are most commonly used due to their compatibility with lip tissue. While not permanent, dermal fillers typically last between 6-18 months before needing re-treatment.
- Microneedling
Microneedling is a procedure that utilises fine needles to create microwounds or channels in the skin. These controlled, minute injuries in the skin trigger the production of tiny blood vessels or capillaries, collagen, and elastin. When the procedure involves radiofrequency waves, which is a type of energy, it is called Radiofrequency Microneedling. In this case, the needles release radiofrequency into the channels, causing additional stimulation. This treatment can target fine lines and wrinkles around the lip area, proving more powerful than simple medical microneedling. After the procedure, the skin around the lips can become thicker and smoother, giving a youthful yet natural appearance.
It’s essential to note that the effectiveness of these treatments can vary depending on the depth of your barcode lines. I would recommend seeking guidance from a reputable aesthetics practitioner, who can advise you on the best treatment options during a detailed skin consultation. As well as this, adopting a good skincare routine, staying hydrated, and avoiding smoking can contribute to overall skin health.
This piece was brought to you by the experts at https://drwafaaclinic.com/
