The secret tweakment for those who aren’t interested in fillers

With Google searches for ‘lip blush’ on the rise and ‘lip filler’ search terms in decline, is lip blush set to be the new tweakment on everyone’s lips? With over 514 million views on TikTok, it seems it’s certainly paving the way in terms of natural, subtle alternatives to dermal fillers.

For those considering this trending semi-permanent treatment for fuller lips, leading permanent makeup artist Karen Betts shares her super useful guide to Lip Blush… 

WHAT IS LIP BLUSH?
Lip Blush is really trending at the moment – it is a great treatment for those looking to enhance their lips without the use of dermal fillers, or for those that want a fuss free flush of colour every day without the need of applying or topping up makeup. If you are looking for your perfect ‘your lips but better’ shade that truly suits your skin tone, this treatment can give you a full refresh.

HOW IS IT DIFFERENT FROM PERMANENT MAKEUP OF THE PAST?
There’s still a misconception around permanent make-up, where people still think back to 90’s eye and lip liner which nowadays can look harsh and ageing. Our Lip Blush treatment uses a micro-shading technique, delivered via a hand tool which is made up of tiny blades, pins and shader needles, enabling precise strokes and shading to add soft pigment to the lips, defining the border and enhancing your natural colour to give a subtle look.

WHAT IS THE TREATMENT PROCESS & HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE? 
We begin with our all-important consultation where we talk with the client in great detail about the look they are trying to achieve. Once we have an idea of the look the client is aiming for, we draw the lip contour and colour on with a makeup pencil. This can be drawn on and adjusted 50 times if necessary.

The treatment process itself normally takes about 90 minutes, but it varies from person to person depending on your individual requirements. We use a specialist facial tattooing machine, which works at a much lower frequency than a standard tattoo machine, to implant pigment into the lips via very fine needles. The sensation is that of an electric toothbrush being held against your skin. 

HOW CAN I PREPARE FOR MY FIRST LIP BLUSH SESSION?

It’s really important to consider your full beauty routine when booking a permanent makeup treatment. Your permanent makeup artist should be advising you on how to prepare as part of your consultation so that you can factor these timings in ahead of your treatment. I advise that for the two weeks prior to your treatment you…

• Don’t use any active skincare ingredients 
• Avoid sun exposure 
• Don’t have any facial fillers, botox or other injectables in the area 

You’ll also need to skip anything that could have a thinning effect on your blood for at least 24-48 hours. This will be different for everyone so we advise consulting your GP if you’re on any medication but in general this includes avoiding; Ibuprofen, alcohol, isotrentinoin, caffeine, diet supplements, green tea, garlic, smoking, amongst other things which can all thin the blood. Any type of supplement or medication bust be disclosed as part of our initial screening so we can decide what effect these may have on healing or pigment changes.

WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW DIRECTLY AFTER MY LIP BLUSH SESSION? 

Post treatment you are likely to be swollen for up to two days, so we do not advise making any social plans for a few days afterwards. Aftercare is just as important as choosing the right technician to ensure the best results and maximum longevity. You’ll need to adjust your regular beauty routine for the first week, including not applying makeup for the first 72 hours and avoiding actives and using gentle skincare for seven days. In addition, you shouldn’t expose skin to extreme heat (saunas, sunbeds), cold or moisture until the area has healed, which is usually around two weeks. Over exposure to UV is one of the biggest culprits of pigment fade: I tell all my clients to use high-factor sunscreen daily to protect the area and leave 4-6 weeks between your final re-touch procedure and a holiday. Finally, like any skin or cosmetic treatment, you need to keep up with the maintenance. 

HOW LONG DOES IT LAST? 
A second appointment is needed 4-12 weeks after your first treatment. This is usually a 30-60 minute appointment to add more pigment to the lips. This is because as the area is healing, some parts may not ‘hold’ as well as others and you may have a few patches that need more colour. This is completely normal as everyone heals differently. Whatever the case, we advise you always come back to clinic for your retouch. Depending on the individual, Lip Blush will last up to a year, after that it may start to fade and those that prefer a darker or more defined look will require a top up. I usually see a client every 12-18 months for a colour boost to keep their lips looking perfect.

WHAT CAN I DO TO PROLONG MY LIPS IN THE LONG-RUN?

Aftercare, aftercare, aftercare! It’s vital to achieve the best results. I believe if you follow the correct aftercare your lips will heal and last well. The key things to remember are…

• To apply the recovery balm a minimum of four times daily. You should do this using a clean cotton bud for each application (this will prevent infection).
• Do not pick, peel, or scratch the treated area. This may result in the colour healing unevenly and you could also risk scarring and infection. Allow the wound to flake on its own.
• Do not expose the healing skin to extreme heat, cold or moisture fortwo weeks following your treatment. This can include direct sun, tanning beds, Jacuzzis, saunas, salt water, chlorinated pols, direct shower spray, hot water, skin creams or ointments other than what you have been instructed to use. 
• Use SPF to avoid fading.

It’s important to remember, permanent cosmetics are a low maintenance treatment, not a no-maintenance treatment so…

• In order to keep your permanent cosmetics in perfect condition it may be necessary to have a maintenance procedure around every 12 – 18 months, though this will vary for each individual.
• To avoid pigment fade for as long as possible, avoid excessive exposure to the sun or UV rays
• Take care when using moisturisers and other skin product which contain glycolic or fruity acids as these can fade permanent make up

WHAT’S A COMMON MISTAKE PEOPLE MAKE DURING THE PROCESS?

Not using sun block between colour boosts and using products such as AHAs or Glycolics on the area. These cause forced fading (where the blues and yellows fade faster than the reds causing peach/pink brows over time). If you look after the PMU carefully, they will last longer and stay neutral in colour whilst lightening gradually over 12-18 months. Also people must understand that PMU is a cosmetic treatment not a beauty treatment. There is a healing process involved and true results are not seen for at least a month.

Karen adds, “It’s all about micro-treatments, opting for barely there results that have big impact”
“I believe beauty is and always should be individual and as a result, treatments should not take a one size fits all approach. It’s all about subtle treatments that create natural results to enhance what’s already there, helping you to look and feel the best version of yourself. I’m currently seeing clients who have recently had filler dissolved due to migration or because they look overdone or aren’t satisfied with results. Lip blush treatments are a great alternative for those that are still looking to enhance their lips in a natural way. Think Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk, your lips but better!’

Lip Blush, prices start from £495 at Karen Betts Clinics Nationwide (Mayfair, Cheshire and Yorkshire), visit Karenbetts.com for further information.

Karen Betts, leading permanent make-up artist, CEO of Nouveau HD Beauty Group, and owner of Karen Betts Clinics is available for any additional expert comments as well as treatments.