The science behind stressed skin
Share
Skin expert, Kate Kerr, shares the surprising science behind managing stressed skin
When skin appears inflamed, stressed out, or generally unhappy, you’d be forgiven for thinking that slathering on moisturiser is the answer. However skin guru, Kate Kerr, known for her medi-approach to facials at London’s prestigious Agua Spa, is on hand to share the scientific explanation for why this might not be the best approach…
What common mistakes do you see people making when treating stressed skin?
“People are very cautious when treating what they assume is inflamed skin, so they will often just moisturise more and feel terrified at the thought of exfoliating, however this can actually be the key to managing stressed skin.” shares Kate Kerr, aesthetic facialist
What is the scientific cause of stressed skin?
“Stressed skin can be caused simply by not exfoliating enough. Our skin is designed to shed daily as part of the life cycle of the upper layer of the skin. Cells are born, they move to the surface of the skin where they sit for a couple of weeks, and then they slough away.”
Kate continues “However, because we apply product to the skin, it can press those cells down and inhibit cell turnover, causing an accumulation of dead skin cells on the skin which upsets barrier function. That can make the skin more irritated, inflamed and stressed. Your skin will send a message down to the basal layer where the cells are born, saying “stop sending up so many cells we have enough cells down here”, causing your cell turnover and cell function to slow down which is how the skin becomes lazy and stressed” she explains.
How can you improve stressed skin?
Kate Kerr advises, “To improve stressed skin, one of the key things for healthy skin is to activate and regulate what we call the keratinocyte maturation cycle, known as cell turnover. We need to regulate that to ensure a strong barrier which calms the skin down and supresses the inflammatory process because it’s no longer needed. The water loss you would usually get from skin when the barrier is impaired, is instead trapped in, so the skin becomes calmer and more hydrated. Not only does it make the skin glow more, but skin conditions like rosacea and acne are improved too.”
What changes should you make to your skincare routine?
“Firstly, applying skincare inhibits the keratinocyte maturation cycle, so we need to ensure we go in and mimic that natural softening of the skin.”
Kate breaks it down, “Start first by using an acid-based cleanser, ideally salicylic acid based, because that can exfoliate in the pore as well as the surface of the skin. Follow the acid-based cleanser with a physical scrub to slough away dead skin cells. This will also send a signal to skin to send more cells up causing cell turnover and cell function to increase, causing you to have much stronger, healthier skin.”
How many times a week should you be exfoliating?
“I’d recommend starting this routine three times a week and very slowly build up to daily use” advises Kate.
